I am sitting in Sheikh Jarrah, a district to the north of the Old City of Jerusalem, and one of the Arab neighbourhoods. The quiet evening air gets heavy to breathe as loud cracks start to the south-east of where our home is. They come in sporadic bursts, followed by a crackling sound. It for all the world sounds like fireworks, and here it is all too possible to jump to the conclusion that every loud bang is accompanied by a muzzle flash.
Except tonight it isn't fireworks I'm hearing. My housemates scanning Twitter inform me that clashes are taking place in Ras al-Amud, which is indeed to the south-east of us. It was initially between groups of young people, but from the sounds of things, the IDF have now become involved. The bangs are either rubber-coated bullets or tear gas being dispensed as an air-burst. Either way, tonight there is violence taking place barely fifteen minutes' walk from where I live.
It's been a tense time here in Jerusalem. Israel has just celebrated its 67th Independence Day, with Israeli flags covering cars and buildings in the city, while military aircraft fly overhead. But on this same day, a group unaffiliated with Hamas launched a rocket from northern Gaza, which landed in an empty piece of countryside. Israel responded with a drone strike against the 'terrorist target'.
Several young Palestinians have also been killed recently, most notably a sixteen year old boy at A-Zayyim checkpoint. He was accused of attempting to attack the soldiers there with a knife, in some accounts carrying two knives. However, according to all Palestinians, he was unarmed when he was shot, and the evidence removed very quickly to make the shooting look justified. Having not been there myself, I cannot confirm or deny the veracity of this. All I know is that a sixteen year old was killed by a professional soldier. It's a dead kid however you look at it. And this is probably the spark of tonight's problems, until the next story of Palestinian suffering and response filters through the ears of those who will listen. It isn't at all dissimilar to the situation in places such as Ferguson, MO, where a young man was killed by a trained officer, and rioting happened. Personally, I believe that in each case the authorised officer's training, as well as back up, should have meant that neither Michael Brown nor Ali Sa'id Abu Ghanem were lethally shot. I cannot change whether you think they were guilty or not, but I do care if you cannot understand why these killings aggravate friends and relatives to the point where riots and clashes happen.
So, groups of young people begin a clash and the IDF, of course, joins in to protect the Israeli youths in the current scenario. Finger pointing will inevitably happen and there will be those determined to say 'well they started it'. I have seen that myself talking to other adults about the situation here. But even if the first stone is cast by someone, they must have a reason for that throw, such as the shooting of a young man, who is reputed to be innocent. I saw this video recently. Once again, this took place less than fifteen minutes away from where I live. The centre of Jerusalem is not a large place, which only intensifies the problems here.
But anyway, the video. In it you can clearly see a large group of predominantly young Israelis, chanting 'death to Arabs' with gleeful smiles. I don't watch this and hate them. I watch this and just feel incredibly sad for them. These young boys are clearly finding this a lot of fun, shouting to the windows of the shopkeepers above and around them that they wish them dead. This is hate speech in a pure form. I am not angry at these children, as I say. I reserve my anger for those who have taught their children that this is their future. When each generation is raised to think that calling for the death of those they live side-by-side with is the right thing to do, the cycle can never be broken.
And what of the end of the cycle? The words 'two state solution' are always talked about in relation to Israel and Palestine. But actually being here, those words, sadly, begin to feel more and more hollow with each new thing I learn. One of my future posts will deal with my opinions on the two state solution in detail.
So now I sit here, hoping to not hear when I check the news tomorrow morning of the death of another Palestinian. But in equal measure, I hope that no Israeli has been seriously wounded or killed either. An eye for an eye will not bring peace to this troubled city. But all I can do is listen to the sounds of the clash in the distance and wait to hear about the damage, when I am able to open my eyes in the morning, free from the effects of tear gas and rubber-bullets. I just hope that everyone in Ras al-Amud can open their eyes in the morning too.
(Apologies for the somewhat brief and undetailed post, but I wanted to post about this while it was happening.)
Monday 27 April 2015
Monday 13 April 2015
The Persecuted and the Terrorists: Dystopia in Israel and Palestine
Freedom of speech is a wonderful thing. The idea that no matter who you are, wherever you are, you can say whatever you like. Or at least that's how it's supposed to work. We might have limitations on 'hate speech' in the UK for instance, but that part is easy to understand. It's based on the idea of fairness, that no one should be marginalised based on the prejudices held by another person.
Connected to this idea is something I believe, said by Arundhati Roy: “There's really no such thing as the 'voiceless'. There are only the deliberately silenced, or the preferably unheard.” One final thing adds up to the subject of this post: my love of dystopian novels. I recently finished reading 'Fahrenheit 451', where books are burnt to prevent people from thinking. One of my all time favourite books is 'Nineteen Eighty-Four', Orwell's classic where every aspect of life, be it media or conversation, is controlled and observed by IngSoc, the sinister party ruling Oceania and Airstrip One.
Why am I mentioning all of these things? It is because of the place I am sitting, the ever divisive Jerusalem. This is a place which the world media looks at, and yet equal levels of free speech are not generally given worldwide to the opposing inhabitants of this land. Despite horror stories of the suffering of Gaza which do reach us, the idea still persists that the Israelis are a persecuted people who have to fight every day against the terrorists who swarm against them. This idea is completely outdated, and should be scrapped. Israel's military is ranked as the eleventh strongest in the world. So why do we still have this view?
The media is very important in the way the world discovers and understands itself. Ray Bradbury understood this perfectly. George Orwell knew it just as well. Both write about how removal of certain stories, or even subtle changes to existing ones can keep the public feeding out of the palms of the producers, believing every word and being content with the truth. Let me give you some examples of the twists in the truth we find here.
Recently, there was a tragic incident here in the Holy Land. A Palestinian, one of the many ticking time bombs in this fractured land (see previous post) attacked two IDF soldiers with a knife. He injured one severely, and wounded the other, before being shot dead himself. The BBC news reported it in this article. Note the title of the piece: 'Palestinian killed after stabbing two Israeli soldiers'. We can debate the ins and outs as to whether they were on his land, and how far he was pushed, forever. It doesn't change the fact that two men were injured and one died in a horrible event. But the BBC article has simple title, which sums up the events pretty well. However, I first saw this article when my sister sent me a link to it on Facebook Chat. The title appeared differently there. Instead it simply read 'Palestinian stabs two Israelis in West Bank.' Imagine that you skimmed past that title. It says only half the story, and doesn't say that those attacked were military, one of the most incendiary sights for people in the West Bank. I am not excusing a man of violence, but it is important to understand that he died and both soldiers lived. We need balance to look at this story.
The BBC have also had other articles which are not balanced in their portrayal. For example, look at this article from June 2013. Look at the picture. Here you see a Palestinian man shouting into the face of a calm looking IDF soldier. The Palestinian looks angry, like he is about to do something terrible. This man's name is Adeeb, and this photo was taken during one of the weekly protests at Bil'in, a small village which lost large amounts of land to the Mod'in Illit settlement, the largest illegal construction on the West Bank. Every week the villagers, bolstered by international, and even Israeli support, come out to demonstrate against the wall and the settlement, only to be met with hails of rubber-coated bullets and tear gas. It is ritual by now. These protests, and life in the village are captured spectacularly in the Oscar nominated 5 Broken Cameras (also available on Netflix). I would encourage everyone to watch the full documentary, but for now just watch from 13:00 to 14:30. You'll get an impression of the protests, and of Adeeb. He is angry, but he has reason. He talks loudly, because there are cameras and he wants everyone to hear. But he is not a violent man, as the single picture on the BBC article would imply.
So the media, even among respected sources like the BBC, does not show the balance it should about the difficulties in this land. Even more interestingly, most Israelis have no idea of the balance. One of the directors of '5 Broken Cameras', Guy Davidi, an Israeli himself, has made a point of trying to show young people his film. Watching their reactions, it is encouraging to see young Israelis reacting with horror at what they see. However, it is instantly obvious that they are not told the realities of the situation with Palestine. As said in my previous article, they are raised to see Palestinians as dangerous terrorists. Once again, media fails to show the full story, but in Israel it is more like intentional propaganda to keep the government's ideals among the people. And it is working. Besides, there is little they can do. The national service programme requires all young Israelis to serve in the military, unless they are excused on religious or psychological grounds. Those who object serve prison sentences instead.
I also talked about 'Nineteen Eighty-Four' above. This most restrictive of the dystopian settings shows a world where every moment is watched, and people can be arrested at any time. It is considered normal for people to disappear in the night. Well, people disappear in the night here in Palestine too, but more frequently it is their homes, demolished because they lack the proper permits. This would sound marginally sensible, until you learn how hard it is for a Palestinian to get a permit, with both economic and, frankly, racist barriers in their way. However, many internationally illegal settlements have been approved on the West Bank by Netanyahu's government for Zionist settlers.
And what about the all reaching power of the police and military? Well, you see soldiers all over the Palestinian parts of Jerusalem, just young men and women with M4 Carbines, many of whom are there as part of the national service practised in Israel. These kids follow their orders, and have been raised in the system where Palestinians are these dangerous people to be feared and hated. It is no wonder that older Palestinians, who have lived in this land their whole life, are outraged when a twenty year old stops them, as if they have full authority in this land. The picture below was taken right outside my place of work. This man was stopped, his bag searched and his ID checked on nothing more than a whim. There was nothing suspicious about him. He simply looked like a man on his way to work. The policy here is as discriminative as 'Stop and Frisk' was in New York, and reveals just as few criminals. Instead it just highlights the impunity with which the Israeli authorities act, as well as the fact that all Palestinians are liable to be stopped at any moment.
Finally, there is the ever watchful eye of Big Brother in 'Nineteen Eighty-Four'. While there are not telescreens fitted into every wall, there are some things which border on it. In the above image, you can see a balloon in the middle right of the picture. We were told by a Palestinian friend that this is a camera, used by the Israelis to monitor buildings in the Old City, as well as movements of people. I myself was sceptical, until it moved, drifting down over the streets, against the wind. While I couldn't make out a camera, it is clearly motorised for some purpose, and the camera makes a horrifying amount of sense, suggesting that the Old City is under constant observation.
I am living in a state which constantly talks of persecution and terrorism, and yet the Palestinians are kept behind a wall, their homes are demolished and their movements are watched, either by cameras or the eyes of the IDF, backed up by the muzzles of their rifles. Even though I try to remain objective, you cannot help but see that the persecution has fallen from the shoulders of the Jewish peoples of Israeli, and has landed firmly on Palestine, coming down with combat boots and huge slabs of concrete. I wish I had a tenth of the genius of Bradbury or Orwell to write some powerful novel of this twisted system to explain the situation, but as it stands, my simple words here will have to suffice.
As I said above, quoting Arundhati Roy: “There's really no such thing as the 'voiceless'. There are only the deliberately silenced, or the preferably unheard.” I am writing this in an attempt to be balanced, but also to raise my voice along with those who are muffled behind a wall, the clamour of the previously persecuted still ringing in the ears of the world, excusing them of their actions. It is time we looked beyond simple headlines and pictures and probed deeper, to learn the truth of the situation.
All I can do is tell you the truth I see with my own eyes. It is a hard truth, but it is also a truth which demands justice. The Israelis gained a homeland following their persecution. It is time for the persecution of Palestine to stop, before they lose theirs.
Connected to this idea is something I believe, said by Arundhati Roy: “There's really no such thing as the 'voiceless'. There are only the deliberately silenced, or the preferably unheard.” One final thing adds up to the subject of this post: my love of dystopian novels. I recently finished reading 'Fahrenheit 451', where books are burnt to prevent people from thinking. One of my all time favourite books is 'Nineteen Eighty-Four', Orwell's classic where every aspect of life, be it media or conversation, is controlled and observed by IngSoc, the sinister party ruling Oceania and Airstrip One.
Why am I mentioning all of these things? It is because of the place I am sitting, the ever divisive Jerusalem. This is a place which the world media looks at, and yet equal levels of free speech are not generally given worldwide to the opposing inhabitants of this land. Despite horror stories of the suffering of Gaza which do reach us, the idea still persists that the Israelis are a persecuted people who have to fight every day against the terrorists who swarm against them. This idea is completely outdated, and should be scrapped. Israel's military is ranked as the eleventh strongest in the world. So why do we still have this view?
The media is very important in the way the world discovers and understands itself. Ray Bradbury understood this perfectly. George Orwell knew it just as well. Both write about how removal of certain stories, or even subtle changes to existing ones can keep the public feeding out of the palms of the producers, believing every word and being content with the truth. Let me give you some examples of the twists in the truth we find here.
Recently, there was a tragic incident here in the Holy Land. A Palestinian, one of the many ticking time bombs in this fractured land (see previous post) attacked two IDF soldiers with a knife. He injured one severely, and wounded the other, before being shot dead himself. The BBC news reported it in this article. Note the title of the piece: 'Palestinian killed after stabbing two Israeli soldiers'. We can debate the ins and outs as to whether they were on his land, and how far he was pushed, forever. It doesn't change the fact that two men were injured and one died in a horrible event. But the BBC article has simple title, which sums up the events pretty well. However, I first saw this article when my sister sent me a link to it on Facebook Chat. The title appeared differently there. Instead it simply read 'Palestinian stabs two Israelis in West Bank.' Imagine that you skimmed past that title. It says only half the story, and doesn't say that those attacked were military, one of the most incendiary sights for people in the West Bank. I am not excusing a man of violence, but it is important to understand that he died and both soldiers lived. We need balance to look at this story.
The BBC have also had other articles which are not balanced in their portrayal. For example, look at this article from June 2013. Look at the picture. Here you see a Palestinian man shouting into the face of a calm looking IDF soldier. The Palestinian looks angry, like he is about to do something terrible. This man's name is Adeeb, and this photo was taken during one of the weekly protests at Bil'in, a small village which lost large amounts of land to the Mod'in Illit settlement, the largest illegal construction on the West Bank. Every week the villagers, bolstered by international, and even Israeli support, come out to demonstrate against the wall and the settlement, only to be met with hails of rubber-coated bullets and tear gas. It is ritual by now. These protests, and life in the village are captured spectacularly in the Oscar nominated 5 Broken Cameras (also available on Netflix). I would encourage everyone to watch the full documentary, but for now just watch from 13:00 to 14:30. You'll get an impression of the protests, and of Adeeb. He is angry, but he has reason. He talks loudly, because there are cameras and he wants everyone to hear. But he is not a violent man, as the single picture on the BBC article would imply.
So the media, even among respected sources like the BBC, does not show the balance it should about the difficulties in this land. Even more interestingly, most Israelis have no idea of the balance. One of the directors of '5 Broken Cameras', Guy Davidi, an Israeli himself, has made a point of trying to show young people his film. Watching their reactions, it is encouraging to see young Israelis reacting with horror at what they see. However, it is instantly obvious that they are not told the realities of the situation with Palestine. As said in my previous article, they are raised to see Palestinians as dangerous terrorists. Once again, media fails to show the full story, but in Israel it is more like intentional propaganda to keep the government's ideals among the people. And it is working. Besides, there is little they can do. The national service programme requires all young Israelis to serve in the military, unless they are excused on religious or psychological grounds. Those who object serve prison sentences instead.
I also talked about 'Nineteen Eighty-Four' above. This most restrictive of the dystopian settings shows a world where every moment is watched, and people can be arrested at any time. It is considered normal for people to disappear in the night. Well, people disappear in the night here in Palestine too, but more frequently it is their homes, demolished because they lack the proper permits. This would sound marginally sensible, until you learn how hard it is for a Palestinian to get a permit, with both economic and, frankly, racist barriers in their way. However, many internationally illegal settlements have been approved on the West Bank by Netanyahu's government for Zionist settlers.
And what about the all reaching power of the police and military? Well, you see soldiers all over the Palestinian parts of Jerusalem, just young men and women with M4 Carbines, many of whom are there as part of the national service practised in Israel. These kids follow their orders, and have been raised in the system where Palestinians are these dangerous people to be feared and hated. It is no wonder that older Palestinians, who have lived in this land their whole life, are outraged when a twenty year old stops them, as if they have full authority in this land. The picture below was taken right outside my place of work. This man was stopped, his bag searched and his ID checked on nothing more than a whim. There was nothing suspicious about him. He simply looked like a man on his way to work. The policy here is as discriminative as 'Stop and Frisk' was in New York, and reveals just as few criminals. Instead it just highlights the impunity with which the Israeli authorities act, as well as the fact that all Palestinians are liable to be stopped at any moment.
I am living in a state which constantly talks of persecution and terrorism, and yet the Palestinians are kept behind a wall, their homes are demolished and their movements are watched, either by cameras or the eyes of the IDF, backed up by the muzzles of their rifles. Even though I try to remain objective, you cannot help but see that the persecution has fallen from the shoulders of the Jewish peoples of Israeli, and has landed firmly on Palestine, coming down with combat boots and huge slabs of concrete. I wish I had a tenth of the genius of Bradbury or Orwell to write some powerful novel of this twisted system to explain the situation, but as it stands, my simple words here will have to suffice.
As I said above, quoting Arundhati Roy: “There's really no such thing as the 'voiceless'. There are only the deliberately silenced, or the preferably unheard.” I am writing this in an attempt to be balanced, but also to raise my voice along with those who are muffled behind a wall, the clamour of the previously persecuted still ringing in the ears of the world, excusing them of their actions. It is time we looked beyond simple headlines and pictures and probed deeper, to learn the truth of the situation.
All I can do is tell you the truth I see with my own eyes. It is a hard truth, but it is also a truth which demands justice. The Israelis gained a homeland following their persecution. It is time for the persecution of Palestine to stop, before they lose theirs.
Tuesday 7 April 2015
What is Jerusalem worth?: Provocation and Hatred in a holy place.
I am sitting in East Jerusalem. If ever you wanted to pick a place iconic of struggle between differing groups of people, this is it. A focal point of all three Abrahamic religions, a city contested throughout its long existence, for some ideal that the ownership of one city will somehow make the possessors superior. It's as if some divine moment is meant to accompany domination of Jerusalem. The Crusaders had that mentality. Although it meant that cultures of Europe and the Middle East came into contact on a larger scale than ever before, the main product of this was bloodshed and fostering of long-running hatreds. Sitting here, I see the same ancient problems around me now. In 1967 the Israeli army took control of Jerusalem and placed the whole of the West Bank under military control. Once more conflict here in the Holy Land is alive and well, albeit without armies confronting each other and massacres of civilian caravans on a regular basis. Instead the violence here is on a smaller scale, deaths more individual, and only one side can boast of having an army, Jerusalem being the focus of both groups. Israel claims that the 'united' Jerusalem is its capital, while many Palestinians believe that without Jerusalem belonging to them, there can never be peace. Once more this attitude that nothing matters but this one place seems to prevail, without room for compromise.
I am in what is traditionally an Arab district, Sheikh Jarrah, and at the foot of the hill on which my temporary home rests is an Israeli settlement. Every day, Hasidic Jews in their traditional dress file out towards the Western Wall, walking through this area on what can be called 'the wrong side of the Green Line'. They walk through an Arab neighbourhood which echoes with the sounds of the call to prayer five times a day, the musical voice of the muezzin calling to the followers of his faith, just as the Wall itself calls to the Jewish population. At the same time, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre sits with its lofty domes, summoning Christians from the world over. All three walk together in this sacred place, but there is not peace. There is no longer technically war, but peace is elusive.
There seems to be one major reason for this: peace is not wanted for this city. While many people want nothing more than to live their lives not embroiled in constant hatred, there remains an element who know how to provoke. Today, walking through Jerusalem's Old City, I saw a man wearing a t-shirt emblazoned with the slogan 'Thank You IDF'. He walked through an Arab market with a knowing smile on his face. He knew that his shirt would cause offence. It seems to be exactly what he intended. The Israeli military have a heavy presence through Jerusalem, M4 Carbines casually hanging from the uniforms of people as young, or younger than me. The prevalence of 'selfies' taken among them just shows them to be teenagers, taught to be proud of their military, acting under orders. Israeli flags also fly from every building which has been taken from Palestinians, either via purchase or force: banners of victory and ownership. It is little wonder that the local Arab population react, often with violence, and then they receive the same in return.
This isn't the only place in the world where people are provoked, however. Northern Ireland also springs to mind, with the annual parades on Orangemen's Day. I recently watched a documentary from 2011 on the still divided nature of Belfast, showing the impact this day has on the lives of the people there. Protestant children help burn huge fires, lit with molotov cocktails, the stacks of pallets covered in signs saying 'Kill All Taigs' and similar inflammatory, violent phrases. Once again, it is no wonder that the more Catholic neighbourhoods, such as Ardoyne, get angry at the parades celebrating the Protestant Ulstermen. I could research even more small places in the world where one group antagonises another, getting a violent response in return, but then this post would go on forever.
Palestine and Northern Ireland have been compared often enough for very good reasons. Both are considered by some to be occupied, while thought by others to be rightfully owned. Both have witnessed violent clashes and deaths on both sides as part of their respective struggles. Even their graffiti is similar, as per the examples shown here.
One part of the documentary linked above stood out to me. When the Protestant children preparing the bonfires in Belfast were asked the reason why they constructed such a conflagration, and what that day meant for their hatred of Catholics, they had one answer: 'I don't know' These children were revelling in the provocative display, without even being able to justify its existence. The same happens here, but provocation can lead to the worst of situations.
Palestine is in a more excessive situation. It is under a proper military occupation. People here are killed and beaten regularly by both military forces, and by illegal settlers, but a recent conversation with a Palestinian photo-journalist taught me a some of why it feels justified by the offenders. See the sign in the image next to this text. There is the sentence 'Dangerous To Your Lives'. The photo-journalist also told us that Israelis he had met were fearful, because they were told that Palestinians posed a direct threat to their lives. I hear this and I pity both groups of people. The Palestinians suffer from oppression, be it physical, economic or educational. But the Israelis are taught that they should hate the Arabs who have lived here for generations. They are taught that they are dangerous, and that Palestinians are the enemy. Hatred is fostered by both sides because their opposites are not viewed as human in the same way. However, the journalist became friends with an Israeli girl, and changed her mind about the occupation. He did not do it through violence or intimidation. He did it by calmly explaining the situation and talking about it. As Nelson Mandela said, "No one is born hating another person because of the colour of his skin, or his background, or his religion. People must learn to hate, and if they can learn to hate, they can be taught to love, for love comes more naturally to the human heart than its opposite." For myself, this attitude is one I cling to. I firmly believe that without the influence of malicious provocation and taught hatreds, then people would be able to live in peace, no matter where they have come from.
Many Israelis, especially the extremely religious, believe that in coming to Israel they are returning to their homeland. They fabricate a story that the Palestinians have a lesser claim to this region because the Jews were here first. That means the Jews have the rightful claim. I am reminded of one of my favourite films every time I hear this. 'Kingdom of Heaven', Ridley Scott's crusader epic, gives me so much quotable material I can use for this place, but Balian's speech about Jerusalem asks the most important questions, still relevant for this ancient city today: 'Which is more holy? The Wall? The Mosque? The Sepulchre? Who has claim? No-one has claim. All have claim.' This attitude sums up my feeling. Jerusalem is a beautiful city, and the Old City is full of people of so many backgrounds. A friend told me, as we stood on a rooftop looking down at the bustling streets "From the rooftops it is so beautiful. You can almost forget about the hate below." She was right. This city is beautiful, but it is divided by continuous stirrings up of hatred.
Another thing said in the documentary on Belfast has made an impact on me: "Nothing's been accomplished, but it's the principle of the thing." This feels like the situation here in Jerusalem. Although I wholeheartedly stand with the people of Palestine, wanting to see them free of injustice, I cannot approve of violence being given in response for violence. While I can understand how horrendous the provocations given are, if forgiveness is never practised, the circle will never be broken. Nelson Mandela lost twenty-seven years of his life in prison. He was still able to forgive and to begin paving the way for a better future for his country. Recently I have been reading the autobiography of Malala Yousafzai. If more of the world were to follow her example, too, standing up for what she believes in, but not condemning anyone, not even the Taliban commander who shot her in the face and almost killed her, then it would be a world I would be more comfortable in. If we were raised by her example, and Mandela's teachings in later life, then fewer children would be brought up inheriting the hate of their parents. Children are the same the world over. They want to play, have fun, and enjoy the world around them. As adults we should do just the same.
There is much blood which has flowed through the streets of this city I sit in. At times you can almost smell it, seeing the tension built up like a coiled spring. The right provocation from either side could cause the city to explode. I am uncomfortable, not out of fear for my own safety, but because of what the people around me believe to be true, that there should be no forgiveness. Israel needs to stop its apartheid against the people of Palestine. But any lasting peace in this area will have to come not from retaliation or compensation. It will have to come from something far less tangible: it will have to come from the hearts of people, who all see each other as human and equal.
Disagree with me if you like, but I have hope. My faith does not need a wall, a tomb or a rock. It just needs people to open their hearts and minds and stop hating one another. Three of the holiest constructions in the world stand here. None of them causes the others to fall down, nor does it intend to. People here should be able to do the same.
To end with another Kingdom of Heaven reference, to people here Jerusalem is worth everything. But what is this place in the grand scheme of things? Despite its holy significance, what does it really mean for the physical existence of humanity in this region? Nothing. It is a group of buildings, on top of the Earth we all live on. One day I hope each will be able to look beyond their own holy building and see the people on the other side. One day I hope peace will be achieved not through UN sanctions and political deals, but through human compassion. And I can't be the only one.
(A song to sum up my feelings, by an Israeli band: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bds3FALcR7M )
I am in what is traditionally an Arab district, Sheikh Jarrah, and at the foot of the hill on which my temporary home rests is an Israeli settlement. Every day, Hasidic Jews in their traditional dress file out towards the Western Wall, walking through this area on what can be called 'the wrong side of the Green Line'. They walk through an Arab neighbourhood which echoes with the sounds of the call to prayer five times a day, the musical voice of the muezzin calling to the followers of his faith, just as the Wall itself calls to the Jewish population. At the same time, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre sits with its lofty domes, summoning Christians from the world over. All three walk together in this sacred place, but there is not peace. There is no longer technically war, but peace is elusive.
There seems to be one major reason for this: peace is not wanted for this city. While many people want nothing more than to live their lives not embroiled in constant hatred, there remains an element who know how to provoke. Today, walking through Jerusalem's Old City, I saw a man wearing a t-shirt emblazoned with the slogan 'Thank You IDF'. He walked through an Arab market with a knowing smile on his face. He knew that his shirt would cause offence. It seems to be exactly what he intended. The Israeli military have a heavy presence through Jerusalem, M4 Carbines casually hanging from the uniforms of people as young, or younger than me. The prevalence of 'selfies' taken among them just shows them to be teenagers, taught to be proud of their military, acting under orders. Israeli flags also fly from every building which has been taken from Palestinians, either via purchase or force: banners of victory and ownership. It is little wonder that the local Arab population react, often with violence, and then they receive the same in return.
This isn't the only place in the world where people are provoked, however. Northern Ireland also springs to mind, with the annual parades on Orangemen's Day. I recently watched a documentary from 2011 on the still divided nature of Belfast, showing the impact this day has on the lives of the people there. Protestant children help burn huge fires, lit with molotov cocktails, the stacks of pallets covered in signs saying 'Kill All Taigs' and similar inflammatory, violent phrases. Once again, it is no wonder that the more Catholic neighbourhoods, such as Ardoyne, get angry at the parades celebrating the Protestant Ulstermen. I could research even more small places in the world where one group antagonises another, getting a violent response in return, but then this post would go on forever.
Palestine and Northern Ireland have been compared often enough for very good reasons. Both are considered by some to be occupied, while thought by others to be rightfully owned. Both have witnessed violent clashes and deaths on both sides as part of their respective struggles. Even their graffiti is similar, as per the examples shown here.
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| Image from http://www.riaanphotography.com/ |
One part of the documentary linked above stood out to me. When the Protestant children preparing the bonfires in Belfast were asked the reason why they constructed such a conflagration, and what that day meant for their hatred of Catholics, they had one answer: 'I don't know' These children were revelling in the provocative display, without even being able to justify its existence. The same happens here, but provocation can lead to the worst of situations.
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| Credit: Rory Evans |
Many Israelis, especially the extremely religious, believe that in coming to Israel they are returning to their homeland. They fabricate a story that the Palestinians have a lesser claim to this region because the Jews were here first. That means the Jews have the rightful claim. I am reminded of one of my favourite films every time I hear this. 'Kingdom of Heaven', Ridley Scott's crusader epic, gives me so much quotable material I can use for this place, but Balian's speech about Jerusalem asks the most important questions, still relevant for this ancient city today: 'Which is more holy? The Wall? The Mosque? The Sepulchre? Who has claim? No-one has claim. All have claim.' This attitude sums up my feeling. Jerusalem is a beautiful city, and the Old City is full of people of so many backgrounds. A friend told me, as we stood on a rooftop looking down at the bustling streets "From the rooftops it is so beautiful. You can almost forget about the hate below." She was right. This city is beautiful, but it is divided by continuous stirrings up of hatred.
There is much blood which has flowed through the streets of this city I sit in. At times you can almost smell it, seeing the tension built up like a coiled spring. The right provocation from either side could cause the city to explode. I am uncomfortable, not out of fear for my own safety, but because of what the people around me believe to be true, that there should be no forgiveness. Israel needs to stop its apartheid against the people of Palestine. But any lasting peace in this area will have to come not from retaliation or compensation. It will have to come from something far less tangible: it will have to come from the hearts of people, who all see each other as human and equal.
Disagree with me if you like, but I have hope. My faith does not need a wall, a tomb or a rock. It just needs people to open their hearts and minds and stop hating one another. Three of the holiest constructions in the world stand here. None of them causes the others to fall down, nor does it intend to. People here should be able to do the same.
To end with another Kingdom of Heaven reference, to people here Jerusalem is worth everything. But what is this place in the grand scheme of things? Despite its holy significance, what does it really mean for the physical existence of humanity in this region? Nothing. It is a group of buildings, on top of the Earth we all live on. One day I hope each will be able to look beyond their own holy building and see the people on the other side. One day I hope peace will be achieved not through UN sanctions and political deals, but through human compassion. And I can't be the only one.
(A song to sum up my feelings, by an Israeli band: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bds3FALcR7M )
Monday 6 April 2015
A little introduction to me.
Well, I'm finally doing it. I've jumping over that internet hurdle and starting a blog. I personally thought Facebook was enough, but with recent turns in my life, as well as a long-term voice telling me to, I'm finally jumping on the bandwagon that is blogging, with the hope that someone will spend a few minutes to read my thoughts. Being a relatively simple person, there won't be a great range of themes, but hopefully my musings will make you think a little.
So, a little about me to give you an introduction. I'm aware that some readers will know me, but there will hopefully be some who don't. I aim to be honest when writing on here, so I will be confrontational. I will be deep and dark and moody. And most importantly, this post will stand up for what I believe in. Again, not all my readers will approve of everything I write. However, I like that. I like to encourage questioning in friends, and if they disagree with me, that is fine.
Right, onto the real topic of this post. I'll stop getting distracted. I'm a twenty-two year old male from the United Kingdom. I have spent the entirety of my life in that country, and thus have gone through the British school system. I went to university in Cambridge, studying the weirdest shit, but also, in my opinion the most awesome. I studied Anglo-Saxon, Norse and Celtic. Look it up. It really isn't the most useful for me, but it was pretty brilliant. I certainly don't regret it.
So, let's cover the parts of my overly long-winded name. It was a decision reached by me and some friends at a music festival that it suited me as a nickname. It's hardly short or sweet, but it sums me up pretty damned well. Let's go from the least interesting parts to the most.
'Redneck' is pretty simple for me, despite my lack of Southern roots. And it's not because of how easily I sunburn, being a red-headed man. It comes from my habit of wearing sleeveless shirts, listening to Southern music (be it metal, country or blues), and the fact that I am a dab hand with an axe. I also own several throwing knives. Why not, right? So in a way, I suit that moniker. To add another little detail, I love music. I really don't know what I'd do without it in my life. Anything with a touch of the blues will get my love, as will highly charged and aggressive punk and heavy metal. If you want an idea of some of my ideal music, listen to Soulfly, Down and The White Buffalo.
So, how about 'Viking'? Again, easy. I'm a guy with a big red beard, who always wears Thor's Hammer around his neck, who has a Norse symbol as a tattoo on my left shoulder (don't worry, I'm not a Nazi. I'll probably cover this is in a later post). Oh yeah, and I spent three years at uni studying vikings. As well as having spent the past seven years as a viking re-enactor. It's hardly a wonder that I stumbled into this nickname, which is actually regularly used for me in life. I was even mentioned as 'Viking' on BBC Radio 2 recently, of all things... Like with the above paragraph, I'll quickly spin this into my love of history in general. The past fascinates me, because no author can tell stories which can quite live up to the real events of the past. I feel a little guilty, but I have a fascination with weapons and warfare, despite being a pacifist. The fact that war represents a combined zenith and nadir of human physical and technological innovation and ability simple draws me in.
So now for the most interesting part. The others are in a way fundamental to my heart, because I would not be comfortable without my look and my music. I wouldn't be me. But the most important part of what drives me in life is a love for humanity. I was raised to be a caring individual, but ever since getting disillusioned with the luxuries of British living at university, I have slipped firmly into the humanitarian category. I cannot stand, nor understand hatred of someone based on race, gender, sexuality. I will never condemn an entire group of people based on the actions of a few. I would call myself a realist, but I look for the best in every situation I find myself in. I am very much an idealist when it comes to my wishes for the future, but I have no qualms about being an idealist. In my opinion, without tolerance, compassion and forgiveness, this world we live in will keep sliding down the slope it's on.
A lot of the last paragraph will come out in later posts. I am currently sitting in East Jerusalem, here as part of a volunteering post in Palestine. If you want a place to come to see injustice, you cannot do much better than here. Most of my posts in the next nine weeks will relate to this incredible place. Hopefully I can help you understand a little more of the situation here, at the same time as giving you something to think about.
But anyway, that's me in a nutshell. Obviously you'd need a pretty big nutshell to fit everything to do with me into it, but I hope this gives you an idea. And I hope you will read what I have to say and at least think, even if you don't agree.
So, a little about me to give you an introduction. I'm aware that some readers will know me, but there will hopefully be some who don't. I aim to be honest when writing on here, so I will be confrontational. I will be deep and dark and moody. And most importantly, this post will stand up for what I believe in. Again, not all my readers will approve of everything I write. However, I like that. I like to encourage questioning in friends, and if they disagree with me, that is fine.
Right, onto the real topic of this post. I'll stop getting distracted. I'm a twenty-two year old male from the United Kingdom. I have spent the entirety of my life in that country, and thus have gone through the British school system. I went to university in Cambridge, studying the weirdest shit, but also, in my opinion the most awesome. I studied Anglo-Saxon, Norse and Celtic. Look it up. It really isn't the most useful for me, but it was pretty brilliant. I certainly don't regret it.
So, let's cover the parts of my overly long-winded name. It was a decision reached by me and some friends at a music festival that it suited me as a nickname. It's hardly short or sweet, but it sums me up pretty damned well. Let's go from the least interesting parts to the most.
'Redneck' is pretty simple for me, despite my lack of Southern roots. And it's not because of how easily I sunburn, being a red-headed man. It comes from my habit of wearing sleeveless shirts, listening to Southern music (be it metal, country or blues), and the fact that I am a dab hand with an axe. I also own several throwing knives. Why not, right? So in a way, I suit that moniker. To add another little detail, I love music. I really don't know what I'd do without it in my life. Anything with a touch of the blues will get my love, as will highly charged and aggressive punk and heavy metal. If you want an idea of some of my ideal music, listen to Soulfly, Down and The White Buffalo.
So, how about 'Viking'? Again, easy. I'm a guy with a big red beard, who always wears Thor's Hammer around his neck, who has a Norse symbol as a tattoo on my left shoulder (don't worry, I'm not a Nazi. I'll probably cover this is in a later post). Oh yeah, and I spent three years at uni studying vikings. As well as having spent the past seven years as a viking re-enactor. It's hardly a wonder that I stumbled into this nickname, which is actually regularly used for me in life. I was even mentioned as 'Viking' on BBC Radio 2 recently, of all things... Like with the above paragraph, I'll quickly spin this into my love of history in general. The past fascinates me, because no author can tell stories which can quite live up to the real events of the past. I feel a little guilty, but I have a fascination with weapons and warfare, despite being a pacifist. The fact that war represents a combined zenith and nadir of human physical and technological innovation and ability simple draws me in.
So now for the most interesting part. The others are in a way fundamental to my heart, because I would not be comfortable without my look and my music. I wouldn't be me. But the most important part of what drives me in life is a love for humanity. I was raised to be a caring individual, but ever since getting disillusioned with the luxuries of British living at university, I have slipped firmly into the humanitarian category. I cannot stand, nor understand hatred of someone based on race, gender, sexuality. I will never condemn an entire group of people based on the actions of a few. I would call myself a realist, but I look for the best in every situation I find myself in. I am very much an idealist when it comes to my wishes for the future, but I have no qualms about being an idealist. In my opinion, without tolerance, compassion and forgiveness, this world we live in will keep sliding down the slope it's on.
A lot of the last paragraph will come out in later posts. I am currently sitting in East Jerusalem, here as part of a volunteering post in Palestine. If you want a place to come to see injustice, you cannot do much better than here. Most of my posts in the next nine weeks will relate to this incredible place. Hopefully I can help you understand a little more of the situation here, at the same time as giving you something to think about.
But anyway, that's me in a nutshell. Obviously you'd need a pretty big nutshell to fit everything to do with me into it, but I hope this gives you an idea. And I hope you will read what I have to say and at least think, even if you don't agree.
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