What is Jerusalem worth?: Provocation and Hatred in a holy place.

I am sitting in East Jerusalem. If ever you wanted to pick a place iconic of struggle between differing groups of people, this is it. A focal point of all three Abrahamic religions, a city contested throughout its long existence, for some ideal that the ownership of one city will somehow make the possessors superior. It's as if some divine moment is meant to accompany domination of Jerusalem. The Crusaders had that mentality. Although it meant that cultures of Europe and the Middle East came into contact on a larger scale than ever before, the main product of this was bloodshed and fostering of long-running hatreds. Sitting here, I see the same ancient problems around me now. In 1967 the Israeli army took control of Jerusalem and placed the whole of the West Bank under military control. Once more conflict here in the Holy Land is alive and well, albeit without armies confronting each other and massacres of civilian caravans on a regular basis. Instead the violence here is on a smaller scale, deaths more individual, and only one side can boast of having an army, Jerusalem being the focus of both groups. Israel claims that the 'united' Jerusalem is its capital, while many Palestinians believe that without Jerusalem belonging to them, there can never be peace. Once more this attitude that nothing matters but this one place seems to prevail, without room for compromise.

I am in what is traditionally an Arab district, Sheikh Jarrah, and at the foot of the hill on which my temporary home rests is an Israeli settlement. Every day, Hasidic Jews in their traditional dress file out towards the Western Wall, walking through this area on what can be called 'the wrong side of the Green Line'. They walk through an Arab neighbourhood which echoes with the sounds of the call to prayer five times a day, the musical voice of the muezzin calling to the followers of his faith, just as the Wall itself calls to the Jewish population. At the same time, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre sits with its lofty domes, summoning Christians from the world over. All three walk together in this sacred place, but there is not peace. There is no longer technically war, but peace is elusive.

There seems to be one major reason for this: peace is not wanted for this city. While many people want nothing more than to live their lives not embroiled in constant hatred, there remains an element who know how to provoke. Today, walking through Jerusalem's Old City, I saw a man wearing a t-shirt emblazoned with the slogan 'Thank You IDF'. He walked through an Arab market with a knowing smile on his face. He knew that his shirt would cause offence. It seems to be exactly what he intended. The Israeli military have a heavy presence through Jerusalem, M4 Carbines casually hanging from the uniforms of people as young, or younger than me. The prevalence of 'selfies' taken among them just shows them to be teenagers, taught to be proud of their military, acting under orders. Israeli flags also fly from every building which has been taken from Palestinians, either via purchase or force: banners of victory and ownership. It is little wonder that the local Arab population react, often with violence, and then they receive the same in return.

This isn't the only place in the world where people are provoked, however. Northern Ireland also springs to mind, with the annual parades on Orangemen's Day. I recently watched a documentary from 2011 on the still divided nature of Belfast, showing the impact this day has on the lives of the people there. Protestant children help burn huge fires, lit with molotov cocktails, the stacks of pallets covered in signs saying 'Kill All Taigs' and similar inflammatory, violent phrases. Once again, it is no wonder that the more Catholic neighbourhoods, such as Ardoyne, get angry at the parades celebrating the Protestant Ulstermen. I could research even more small places in the world where one group antagonises another, getting a violent response in return, but then this post would go on forever.

Palestine and Northern Ireland have been compared often enough for very good reasons. Both are considered by some to be occupied, while thought by others to be rightfully owned. Both have witnessed violent clashes and deaths on both sides as part of their respective struggles. Even their graffiti is similar, as per the examples shown here.

Image from http://www.riaanphotography.com/

One part of the documentary linked above stood out to me. When the Protestant children preparing the bonfires in Belfast were asked the reason why they constructed such a conflagration, and what that day meant for their hatred of Catholics, they had one answer: 'I don't know' These children were revelling in the provocative display, without even being able to justify its existence. The same happens here, but provocation can lead to the worst of situations.

Credit: Rory Evans

Palestine is in a more excessive situation. It is under a proper military occupation. People here are killed and beaten regularly by both military forces, and by illegal settlers, but a recent conversation with a Palestinian photo-journalist taught me a some of why it feels justified by the offenders. See the sign in the image next to this text. There is the sentence 'Dangerous To Your Lives'. The photo-journalist also told us that Israelis he had met were fearful, because they were told that Palestinians posed a direct threat to their lives. I hear this and I pity both groups of people. The Palestinians suffer from oppression, be it physical, economic or educational. But the Israelis are taught that they should hate the Arabs who have lived here for generations. They are taught that they are dangerous, and that Palestinians are the enemy. Hatred is fostered by both sides because their opposites are not viewed as human in the same way. However, the journalist became friends with an Israeli girl, and changed her mind about the occupation. He did not do it through violence or intimidation. He did it by calmly explaining the situation and talking about it. As Nelson Mandela said, "No one is born hating another person because of the colour of his skin, or his background, or his religion. People must learn to hate, and if they can learn to hate, they can be taught to love, for love comes more naturally to the human heart than its opposite." For myself, this attitude is one I cling to. I firmly believe that without the influence of malicious provocation and taught hatreds, then people would be able to live in peace, no matter where they have come from. 



Many Israelis, especially the extremely religious, believe that in coming to Israel they are returning to their homeland. They fabricate a story that the Palestinians have a lesser claim to this region because the Jews were here first. That means the Jews have the rightful claim. I am reminded of one of my favourite films every time I hear this. 'Kingdom of Heaven', Ridley Scott's crusader epic, gives me so much quotable material I can use for this place, but Balian's speech about Jerusalem asks the most important questions, still relevant for this ancient city today: 'Which is more holy? The Wall? The Mosque? The Sepulchre? Who has claim? No-one has claim. All have claim.' This attitude sums up my feeling. Jerusalem is a beautiful city, and the Old City is full of people of so many backgrounds. A friend told me, as we stood on a rooftop looking down at the bustling streets "From the rooftops it is so beautiful. You can almost forget about the hate below." She was right. This city is beautiful, but it is divided by continuous stirrings up of hatred.

Another thing said in the documentary on Belfast has made an impact on me: "Nothing's been accomplished, but it's the principle of the thing." This feels like the situation here in Jerusalem. Although I wholeheartedly stand with the people of Palestine, wanting to see them free of injustice, I cannot approve of violence being given in response for violence. While I can understand how horrendous the provocations given are, if forgiveness is never practised, the circle will never be broken. Nelson Mandela lost twenty-seven years of his life in prison. He was still able to forgive and to begin paving the way for a better future for his country. Recently I have been reading the autobiography of Malala Yousafzai. If more of the world were to follow her example, too, standing up for what she believes in, but not condemning anyone, not even the Taliban commander who shot her in the face and almost killed her, then it would be a world I would be more comfortable in. If we were raised by her example, and Mandela's teachings in later life, then fewer children would be brought up inheriting the hate of their parents. Children are the same the world over. They want to play, have fun, and enjoy the world around them. As adults we should do just the same.

There is much blood which has flowed through the streets of this city I sit in. At times you can almost smell it, seeing the tension built up like a coiled spring. The right provocation from either side could cause the city to explode. I am uncomfortable, not out of fear for my own safety, but because of what the people around me believe to be true, that there should be no forgiveness. Israel needs to stop its apartheid against the people of Palestine. But any lasting peace in this area will have to come not from retaliation or compensation. It will have to come from something far less tangible: it will have to come from the hearts of people, who all see each other as human and equal. 

Disagree with me if you like, but I have hope. My faith does not need a wall, a tomb or a rock. It just needs people to open their hearts and minds and stop hating one another. Three of the holiest constructions in the world stand here. None of them causes the others to fall down, nor does it intend to. People here should be able to do the same. 

To end with another Kingdom of Heaven reference, to people here Jerusalem is worth everything. But what is this place in the grand scheme of things? Despite its holy significance, what does it really mean for the physical existence of humanity in this region? Nothing. It is a group of buildings, on top of the Earth we all live on. One day I hope each will be able to look beyond their own holy building and see the people on the other side. One day I hope peace will be achieved not through UN sanctions and political deals, but through human compassion. And I can't be the only one.

(A song to sum up my feelings, by an Israeli band: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bds3FALcR7M )